I'm rebuilding the Mikuni BS32 carbs that came with the motor test stand I bought. They are/were in pretty bad shape. I'm also installing a DynoJet Stage 3 jet kit because I'm going to individual filters and the hack has a 4-into-1 exhaust system.
And of course, on the LAST carb I stripped idle/mixture screw.
I've tried heat and got it a bit further but the head is stripping so bad I'm fearful of doing more damage.
Anyone have a super-secret guaranteed way to extract it?
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
If your not in a hurry I can stop by on Sunday, the 30th, to take a look. If I need tools I will be coming back by on Monday, or I can take the carb with me and bring it back.
Wingfixer wrote:If your not in a hurry I can stop by on Sunday, the 30th, to take a look. If I need tools I will be coming back by on Monday, or I can take the carb with me and bring it back.
I'm not in a hurry. I'm waiting on more parts to come in. I still have to modify the slides and replace the slide needles.
This rebuild is not cheap! it better last a while!
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Kyler wrote:
Anyone have a super-secret guaranteed way to extract it?
No...try soaking the carb or at least the srcew and surrounding area in rust penetrant, overnight. Then try the heat method..don't forget the the penetrant will ignite so wash it in water before heating. If you can get to the head or the screw you can use a hacksaw, or smaller blade to recut the screw driver slot.
'00 KTM 300EXC Brakes just slow you down
'06 VTX1300r
tried the soaking (not overnight - in a can of hot carb cleaner) and heating and ... everything except this which is what the guys over on the Suzuki GS Forums recommend
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
If you can press down into the screw at the same time that you turn the screw that can help immensely too. If you can put a screwdriver bit into a drill press, press down into the screw with the drill press handle while turning the drill chuck by hand you normally can get the screw loose if you have enough meat left in the head of the screw.
For releasing the screw, didn't I see in this forum that mineral spirits + brake fluid (or something like that) beat Liquid Wrench? Also I like to put the screwdriver in the slot then hit it sharply with a hammer to loosen it before trying to turn the screw. What's even better is if you have a manual impact wrench driver with a standard bit on the end. It's like an air impact wrench but it's manual and uses a hammer hit to both do the impact and to turn the bit.
KTM 450 EXC mostly
Member AMA, PaTRA, MD OHV Alliance, trying to join R&T
I think the fundamental problem is bad threads. One carb unscrewed easily. Two had issues and only came out by using a lot of pressure and twisting the screw back/forth as if I was tapping the hole. The last one hates me.
I ordered a M6-0.5 tap set. I'm retapping the holes (assuming I get the last one out).
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Stripped Idle/Mixture Screw
it better last a while!
