I got the bike up on the center stand and drained the engine oil. I had a jug of Rotella ready to go in; all I needed to do was pull the oil filter.
Aha, there it is! Recessed in bottom of the engine. Good idea to avoid knocking it off, not so good when you want to remove it.
Seems I need a special filter wrench. I have probably a half dozen filter wrenches and of course none fit. Nice.
I guess I'll check out the auto parts store for either a KN filter, comes with nut on bottom, or a wrench that fits this DAMN thing.
At least the new BMW filter was free...thanks Mike.