What did you work on today?

[Bucho]

I worked on a walking trail by my house.

There is a really steep spot and too rough for a wheel barrow.

But this worked fairly well. I probably could have stacked 4

IMG_1684.jpeg (170.56 KiB) Viewed 90077 times

Pavers were for a damp/muddy spot.

[Firebolter]

Finished up my 300 re-fresh this weekend.
Yesterday, I drained out and flushed my radiator on the 300 with distilled water. After the flush, I filled with some Redline Supercool and burped the head. When I changed the plug, the plug I took out looked perfect tan and dry. Since it has sat up for over a year, I hand cycled the piston up and down a few times with the kicker, then added a gal of 40:1 93 octane. Held the Kill switch and hit the starter button to suck in some fuel and lube the cylinder. Then I hit the button and she fired right up. Took it for a test spin around the hood-checked sat! That bike runs so crisp with the SX ignition and hi-comp head.

I have replaced and serviced everything on that bike now except for the swing arm and steering stem bearings and both feel great. It's close to time for a suspension fresh but that's a winter project.

80 hour summary-Bike has 80.3 hours on it
New Kenda Trackmaster tires F/R and fresh tubes HD in rear and UHD in the front. Changed brake pads F/R, new chain, new 85W trans oil, new brake fluid/bled, cleaned and lubed throttle and cable, radiator flush and refill, new spark plug, added quick disconnect plug to the Voltage down converter (between battery and unit) for my GPS so my battery doesn't drain when not in use. New battery. Lubed all pivot points (pegs, kicker, levers, shifter, kick stand). Cleaned and lubed throttle cable. Adjusted bark busters. Checked/tightened spokes, only 3 needed a sung up. Detailed airbox and new filter. Added new Tuggers front and rear.

Think that is it! Bike is fresh and after 80 hours, is holding up nicely and still runs like it did day 1-

[gots_a_sol]

The new shop had no power outlets at the front side which seems odd. Also the lights are wired poorly so planned on redoing that today.

While on my way to Lowe's the DAMN back window popped out of my f150



This top track is supposed to be glued to the glass. Apparently it has happened before as it was covered in some non factory adhesive.



Took forever to get all the old glue off. Went to glue it back on and have no idea where my caulk gun with a tube of 3m window weld is at. Went through a bunch of boxes and no luck. Ended up using some double sided tape for now. Hopefully it holds up until I can find or buy another tube of window weld.


Didn't get much garage wiring done. But look at all that glorious space to add stuff. Full 200 amp service to the shop. Plan to tidy up all the sloppy existing wire while I'm at it also.



Ordered some 6, 8, and 10 gauge wire for the welder, plasma, lathe, and air compressor. Was way more at Lowe's than online on the bigger stuff. 14 and 12 gauge was a wash on price though.

[juddspaintballs]

I had problems with my rear view mirror falling off of my F150 for a while. I tried three different glues specifically for that. I used the metal tab, a plastic tab, and then the metal tab with grooves cut into it. Nothing held despite my prep work. What has held for a couple years now with no issues was some Permatex 82194 Ultra Grey. The theory is that it expands and contracts with the change in temperature. If your Window Weld doesn't work out, I'd give that a try.

[Twist]

If you haven't had a problem with your sunroof (if you have one) then you will. It happens so much that the Ford dealer in Annapolis won't work on them and sends you to a shop in Millersville. I love everything about my '17 F150 except the quality, fit, and finish. As much as I like the technology, ride, comfort, and appearance, I don't think I'd buy another one. It's been one DAMN thing after another for going on 6 years.

[gots_a_sol]

If you haven't had a problem with your sunroof (if you have one) then you will. It happens so much that the Ford dealer in Annapolis won't work on them and sends you to a shop in Millersville. I love everything about my '17 F150 except the quality, fit, and finish. As much as I like the technology, ride, comfort, and appearance, I don't think I'd buy another one. It's been one DAMN thing after another for going on 6 years.

No sunroof. I hate them and would not have bought this truck if it had one.

I bought mine used at 85k and am at 120k now. Other than this window thing the only other issue I've had was a worn out belt tensioner and a bad battery.

[juddspaintballs]

My Explorer's motor locked up in February. 2016 with the 3.5 Eco-Boost. It cost about $8k for a Jasper replacement and took 5 months because Jasper didn't even finish production of the 3.5 EB's until May. I love my Explorer Sport for all of the same reasons, but if one of their more reliable engines locks up without warning (and no known cause still), I'm not going to slam my dick in the door twice. Exterior trim pieces are falling off and my sun roof will occasionally drip after a heavy rain. The sun roof design is a bit different than the F150's because I've got the massive panorama one that goes all the way to the cargo area.

[Twist]

My Explorer's motor locked up in February. 2016 with the 3.5 Eco-Boost. It cost about $8k for a Jasper replacement and took 5 months because Jasper didn't even finish production of the 3.5 EB's until May. I love my Explorer Sport for all of the same reasons, but if one of their more reliable engines locks up without warning (and no known cause still), I'm not going to slam my dick in the door twice. Exterior trim pieces are falling off and my sun roof will occasionally drip after a heavy rain. The sun roof design is a bit different than the F150's because I've got the massive panorama one that goes all the way to the cargo area.

How many miles on your 3.5 EB? My 2017 3.5EB has a little less than 60K on it now and the torque converter is starting to act up when the truck has sat for a few days.

[juddspaintballs]

154k when it locked up. I wound up putting new turbos on it with the new motor, plus new brake pads and a windshield trim piece while it was in the (independent mechanic) shop. It was just a touch over $10k all said and done.

[gots_a_sol]

Old IH work


Instead of conventional power steering, I chose to use a Toyota electric power assist from an unmentionable car of theirs. I adapted the lower electric motor housing to an old Fiero column I had.

EPAS housing on the left, slug of delrin in the middle, Fiero column on the right. Had to get my lathe set back up for this part to turn the delrin to the proper sizes inside and out.



Toyota shaft to Fiero shaft. Tig'd and pinned



All married together now.




The next issue is now I don't need a powered steering rack. The Dakota one was a leaky mess and needed replaced anyway so planned on just ordering a manual rack for that truck. The problem is, nobody makes that rack new anymore and there are no remans available that I could find. Plus they would be ~$350 plus whatever core charge had one been available.

So did some measuring and determined the typical Mustang II rack that hot rodders have been using forever was the correct width and travel. The mounts were wider and the pinion angle was pretty far off though. The new rack was $55 shipped. Another $150 or so for hardware, tie rod ends, and a new u joint to match the splines.



Stock Dakota frame mounts at 10" wide and pretty offset to the passenger side of the frame.



Sliced all that off and tacked in a flat plate with 16" spacing to accomodate the M2 rack. The pinion might be a little tight to the cross member but I'm waiting on that u-joint still to find out.






Waiting on a column mount I ordered 3 f'ing weeks ago to show up so I can get the column in the truck. Once that is done I can sort out the pedals.