DAMN Riders - No rules, Just ride!

My newly acquired 16 sherco st factory 300 needs a bit of detuning. I have a 12oz flywheel weight read to go on and was thinking about putting on a low compression head from S3.

Do I need the S3 head cover to go with the low compression head or can I just swap in the head using the OEM head cover?

Any other tips/ideas for making my bike less powerful on the cheap?

Tim Allen would be so upset with me.


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I think that has the S3 head on it already so you'd just need an insert.

I have a '14 Sherco...basically the same bike? I added the flywheel weight and it is much better with regards to "tractoring" thru things and getting over logs.
Why do you want to detune it? I didn't think it had that much "snap".

I have an OSET 24 and I'm a lot better on it. It has significantly less power so you have to use a lot more body English .

I rode the MATV event this weekend and the difference between practicing in my yard vs that course was humbling. If I didn't have good clutch control I would have looped out so many times.

I really just think I'd progress faster with less power. Less panic clutch work and more focus on line and body placement.

But then again, it's still a new to me bike.


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The OSET 20 & 24 have 1.5kW IIRC? (continuous, probably about 2x that peak.) Thats 2hp.

I'm GUESSING you may be using too much clutch and not the right body movement. You ride a trials bike w/ your body, not the clutch. Do the same things you do on the OSET. Use your legs for everything. You don't need the clutch to hop logs/obstacles. If you are popping the clutch to lift the front wheel you are likely doing it wrong (no offense meant - EVERYONE does it wrong until they are shown.) You need the clutch to completely stop or go big on a launch.

When is Mike doing another clinic?

smdub wrote: ↑Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:52 pm The OSET 20 & 24 have 1.5kW IIRC? (continuous, probably about 2x that peak.) Thats 2hp.

I'm GUESSING you may be using too much clutch and not the right body movement. You ride a trials bike w/ your body, not the clutch. Do the same things you do on the OSET. Use your legs for everything. You don't need the clutch to hop logs/obstacles. If you are popping the clutch to lift the front wheel you are likely doing it wrong (no offense meant - EVERYONE does it wrong until they are shown.) You need the clutch to completely stop or go big on a launch.

When is Mike doing another clinic?

Agreed. Shouldnt need to use clutch at all to just bring the front end up.

smdub wrote:The OSET 20 & 24 have 1.5kW IIRC? (continuous, probably about 2x that peak.) Thats 2hp.

I'm GUESSING you may be using too much clutch and not the right body movement. You ride a trials bike w/ your body, not the clutch. Do the same things you do on the OSET. Use your legs for everything. You don't need the clutch to hop logs/obstacles. If you are popping the clutch to lift the front wheel you are likely doing it wrong (no offense meant - EVERYONE does it wrong until they are shown.) You need the clutch to completely stop or go big on a launch.

When is Mike doing another clinic?

I have rhino skin, no offense taken. I think you guys are over estimating my riding skills. Big difference in picking a line and having a plan Vs me having a plan and quickly transitioning to plan B which is, just survive.

Lotta clutch work on a steep loose hill. One time on a steep hill I accidentally looked like I knew what I was doing.


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"No plan survives contact with the enemy."

Honesty, I would just ride it for a while and try to improve at the basics. It really is a mellow and forgiving bike.
Spend some time in the yard, 2nd gear puttering about. Don’t use 1st. Having said that - a flywheel weight his a good addition.

First big diff between a 14 and a 16 Factory. 16 was first of new generation, better carb flow, far more power.
If a factory you can just order the low comp insert....super simple..just need the new O-rings as they are one use application.
Install a black throttle tube (slow turn). Both are cheap and easy to do.
If adding the flywheel weight you will need the flywheel puller also. Just use caution and use a brass drift and pound the seat of the inserts true to the taper of the flywheel inside. Red locktite the threads. Not much holds that spinning mass on. I have become less of a fan of the flywheel weight as had 2 kickers fail and blame the extra effort to spin that extra mass fast making added stress on the kicker. Far bigger fan of a slower hook levers. Apico makes a nice folding lever that is sold as a pair and costs less than the stock levers. For one when you crash you do not snap off your perch,,very expensive. The slower clutch hook for one is an easier pull and slower hook up. If not a 9 tooth front sprocket yet, go down a tooth and install one. It will make 1st very slow where you can do more with just throttle and not need to use as much clutch....you will go straight to second for lots of sections but for the rock gardens sure is nice to not need to control the clutch as much. Unless you have the flywheel weight in hand I would skip it. Mike Damm of Trials Superstore will have the low comp insert kit, also a black throttle tube (look to see if you have black or white). He also stocks the Apico levers and will have the smaller front sprocket (count yours first before ordering).
I know Carbon reeds sure cleaned up the bottom on TRS and my current Beta. Smoother power - less hit on bottom. Dual stage feeds more fuel at bottom, great for grunt but bike will not run as clean. If your carb does not have the quick adjust idle and air screws I highly suggest installing them (kiehn carb). If your pilot (air screw) plugs with dirt or corn snot the bike will not have the circuit to feed fuel down low. Bike will run but will lag and surge off bottom as your work onto the main jet. That makes the bike feel hard to control. That carb is stupid easy to remove....pull the pilot screw and look thru the honeycomb....shoot parts cleaner thru the jet. You need to be able to see thru clearly....if not take safety wire and poke away and flush again. I keep a fell set of mains and pilots in the van for those carbs. Jitsie sells a nice set in a case for $20. Odds are Superstore also has them. I have a packed schedule till after our club 2 day (July 10-11) but after that we might be able to twist Bucho arm for a ride or I can get permission to go back to Airville for a little tune and training day. Trust me on the pilot being plugged....make sure that is spotless before throwing $$$$ at a problem that may not exist. Small steps I would do black throttle tube and Apico levers to start (after confirming the pilot jet is spotless). That pilot has honeycomb inside a tiny jet...a speck of dirt will plug it and corn pump gas is a sure way to plug one.